| Seven days and some 1500 car-miles later, Martha and I have visited New Mexico. We drove the state in a rented PT-Cruiser with unlimited mileage, and boy did we take advantage of that offer. We only scratched the surface but it is such a strange state that it was more like the surface of another planet rather than anything I've ever seen. I shot countless rolls of film that will cost a small fortune to have developed. This is the land where dogs ride in the back of pickup trucks instead of in the pocket of a Prada over the shoulder dog carrier.
White Sands has got to be the craziest uninhabitable place I have ever stood in the center of, not counting the house I grew up in. Bah dum dum. White Sands was just nuts. White Sands is just that, white sand. At least in Death Valley there is earth. I guess, technically, white sand is earth but whatever. I think I burned my retinas.
But I wanted to see it so I applied two coatings of Aveeno 45 sunscreen (I still managed to get a little sunburned on my big fat forehead) and off I went into the white abyss with my cameras. I had preloaded my holga, 35 mm and Lubital in the car well before we entered the area and my intention was to only shoot each camera once and then leave the desert. No film changes, no lens changes, nothing. All that fine white sand blowing around would destroy my cameras even if I got back in the car to do it.
Despite bathing in hand sanitizer, both of us managed to come down with some kind of stomach bug. I felt like shit most of last week with a small reprieve on half of Wednesday into Thursday but by Friday, it all came back in a nasty stomach turning way. Martha was feeling the ills of it all too. I blame the three snot filled, screaming, jumping, kicking kids that sat behind us on the flight from New York to Denver. The math works about right. We sat with them for five hours on Saturday and by Tuesday morning; I was sick and writhing around on the couch crying about it. (I am pathetic.) I could not believe how horrible those children were and how indifferent the parents turned out to be. It was the screaming kid plane and we were directly in front of super kid germs. That entire crew was hacking, even dad who sat directly behind Martha. So classic in its absurdity that I was sure we were being filmed for some kind of psychological study on social pressures under extremely close public conditions.
After a few little hotel stays, one in Albuquerque and one in Roswell, pretty much from Monday night onward, we stayed on a ranch about 20 minutes north of Santa Fe. With no cell phone service, limited dial up and satellite TV with no local channels, we were somewhat out-of-touch. We had our very own Adobe two-room spider-filled nest with a stunning view of the Jemez Mountains and the bunny pen. Peacocks roamed freely atop the buildings and I made friends with a goat who chewed rocks and a supper cute sheep who just so happened to like Triskets.
DIRT: THE NEW YOU I ever completely lose my shit, the place I am going to run away to is Madrid, NM, population around 149. Up in the Ortiz Mountains and along the Turquoise Trail is the fantastic town of Madrid. I could blend in here like you would not believe. It had such a calling on me that we went back twice, had lunch at the Mineshaft Tavern—twice. They only serve burgers and Frito Pie mind you so we weren't there for the food. Martha bought me a beautiful turquoise ring from a gypsy girl named Raven. We had a wonderful time talking with Raven about kids, drugs and belly dancing.
Tiny Town, run by Tammy Tatt2 on Highway 14 near Madrid was one of the more stunning examples of what all that sun, sand blasting winds and good LSD can do to one's soul. Tammy's Tiny Town brings a completely new meaning to Outsider Art. Or maybe she is the definition of it, seeing how all good art words get sucked up into the conscious of the pretentious only to be scorned by the defining artist.
We stayed for a while, out there, in the hot mountain sun of Tiny Town, walking gingerly around the fire ants, while her cute-as-could-be kitty cat showed us around. Martha left a note (Tammy, you have a lovely home and a super sweet cat too. Thanks, Martha & Holly, NY) and a donation.
We went to the Georgia O'Keefe museum, and all that did was cost us sixteen dollars to get in (another thirty-two at the gift shop), and confirm my cranky thoughts about museums and locking up art behind nonflexible admission fees. But Martha wanted to go, so we did.
Churches seemed to be a big theme for us this trip, as did cemeteries. The bone yards in New Mexico are so colorful and not such gothic sorrow that permeates the eastern graveyards. Love the whole gothic sorrow thing but nice to see a little color and celebration of a life lived.
Toward the end to the trip we traveled down I-25 to Belen, NM (Spanish for the word "Bethlehem.") to check out Martha's dad's property. He bought two plots of land sixty-years ago and pays five-American-dollars a year in taxes. We thought someone should check it out to see if there actually was anything down there and by god, there is a subdivision with people and it appears that they have water and electricity. But oh my, my, my, it is not any place I would ever want to live and honestly, I don't think I would be too welcome there. I'm the wrong everything: color, nationality, sexual preference, you name it. It's not too far from the Rio Grande BUT it is in the middle of a dust bowl. Actually, the whole state is turning into a dust bowl. New Mexico is in the middle of a drought. Like a crazy drought. All the creeks and small streams are bone dry. The Rio Grande is currently so thin; I could walk across it without walking in water over my knees. Its crazy to see this. All bridges have nothing more than dirt under them. Dusty, wind blown dirt balls that swell up toward the clear blue sky. Dirt tornadoes rise up on the horizon like octopus tentacles straight from the devil.
I'm glad we went even if I couldn't sleep very well. I think it was just too quiet. I'm used to a certain level of noise and out there all there is, is the sound of the peacocks walking on the roof and the wind whipping around the clay buildings. My hair went completely flat there. No curl whatsoever. My skin was dry like the desert and no amount of cream would work. Amazingly, I still had hives.
FROM 150 TO 8 MILLION IN 24 HR. Did I miss New York? No. I can honestly say, that I really didn't. It's the first time that has ever happened. I missed my cats and a few of the modern conveniences of living in a large, cater-to-me-now city but overall, not so much. Usually after a few days west of the Hudson, I start to get antsy but not this time. Probably because I was in such a strange place but maybe because my head is also in a very strange place. New Mexico is not the typical Middle American fanfare. The southern part of the state is hot, dry and wild. Santa Fe is way too snotty for its own good, Albuquerque reminds me of Jersey but Taos, Taos was awesome.
Our last day there we went to Taos, specifically to the Taos Pueblo and we drove up the Cañon del Rio Grande and through an ice storm to get there. Once we pulled onto the reservation, the sun came out and the weather was chilly but pleasant. We paid out entry fees of twenty-dollars and five-dollar camera charges to step back in time.
The Taos Indian people live on the Pueblo with no running water; there is a stream that they use that comes from the Blue Lake. They have no electricity but they do us propane in the church, and the only source of heat is an adobe fireplace in each home. The rooms are small and a strange-layered system is in effect on the one side of the town. Ladders are used to get from one home to the next. Kind of like a condominium but without the elevators.
Upon leaving the Pueblo, the heavens opened up again and we drove through another ice storm down the mountain, following the Rio Grande all the way back to our ranch. I was starting to think that the ice was a time portal and any minute I would see a dinosaur moving about in the dark shadows of the side mirror.
Ah yes, but now we are home and the sound of peacocks has been replace by screeching car alarms and sirens. Our apartment is completely covered in cat hair and dust. The cats are well and Lily spent our first night back pacing around the bed, bitching at us all night long. I hardly slept at all. She hates it when we leave, because she hates the boy babysitter. She's so salty about it all that she bit Martha in the middle of the night. We must be punished. |  | | Ice |  | | Raven |  | | San Felipe de Neri Parish |  | | John A. Sandoval Marker |  | | Two Trees |  | | Spot |  | | Blue Velvet Chair | |